Khim's Millennium Market is popular a Korean-owned deli chain in New York.
In New York, delis are associated with Koreans like finance with Wall Street and odd size names for Starbucks (should we begin to label our clothes “tall” and “venti”?). With the struggling economy and increased competition, Koreans face greater challenges to maintain a grasp on their historic niche in New York City.
One of the most successful delis, Khim’s Millennium Market, will open a new store in east Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Despite the company’s absence in Manhattan, the pristine twenty-four hour stores packed with endless organic and gourmet items have made the four Khim brothers a household name among Korean deli owners. But owner Charlie Khim explained many of his colleagues, particularly Manhattan-based ones, have closed business. He keeps his stores in Brooklyn because of lower rent and less competition.
Most Koreans arrived in America during the massive Asian immigration between the 1960’s and the 1980’s, following the significant relaxation of immigrant laws. A review of Pyong Gap Min’s book Ethnic Solidarity for Economic Survival, reveals that Koreans’ limited knowledge of English compared to other Asian populations (i.e. Filipinos, Indians) made deli jobs one of the few opportunities available to them. Dry cleaning, nail salons, and fish markets have also drawn many Korean immigrants.
Along with the lack of English required, strong acumen drew Koreans to the deli business. When the wave of Asians arrived, the previous wave of Jewish and Italian immigrants (the original deli owners) was nearing retirement age, and their upwardly mobile children had little interest in continuing the businesses. This prompted many deli owners to sell. The Koreans not only bought them up, but also distinctly tailored the delis to various neighborhoods, so that the twenty-four hour deli appeared to suit busy Manhattaners’ lifestyles, the deli buffet provided the midtown businessman with lunch, and flowers and organic items appeared for those heading home or those unsatisfied with generic items at their local grocery stores.
Khim takes pride on satisfying his customers’ requests. “If a regular customer requests something, I always order it. Even if they might not come back and buy it,” he said. “I treat the customer like my friend.”
Relations between Korean owners and customers have not always been so genial or accommodating. In fact, the history of Korean-owned delis is riddled with racial tension and demonstrations, launched by customers and owners. In 1991, a Haitian woman sued a Korean deli owner in Brooklyn for assault. According to trial reports, deli workers accused Gieslaine Felissaint of shoplifting and proceeded to slap, punch, and kick her. Owner Pong Ok Jang told the court Mrs. Felissaint threw hot peppers in a cashier’s face, sat down on the floor, and began to scream. The jury acquitted Mr. Pong, drawing outrage from the community.
To defend grocers and mediate relations particularly in transactions between grocers and produce sellers at the Hunts Point Market, the Korean Produce Association was formed in 1974. The KPA responds to grocer complaints of unfair prices, discriminatory policies, and false accusations of theft. Between 1977 and 1995, the KPA staged numerous protests against the Hunts Point Market wholesalers. In almost every case, the KPA received an apology from the merchant and a promise to treat Korean grocers fairly.
Nowadays, the grocers face different challenges. Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s, and New York City Green Carts disrupt business more than protests. “Starbucks even has fruit cups,” Khim said. With more grocery chain stores and more businesses branching into grocery items, deli owners grow concerned for their futures. Even Khim’s expansion has its drawback: “I work everyday, sometimes from six to eight or six to ten,” he said. He visits every store and has little interest in expanding beyond Williamsburg or hiring additional managers. “I don’t want other people to manage my stores. I like to be in one neighborhood, so I can go around myself.”
The popularity of Korean delis reveals signature characteristics of New York: people wanting twenty-four hour convenience, people able and willing to purchase organic items, and the ability of a large population of immigrants to dominate a niche for decades. Though the fate of Korean delis and many businesses hangs in the air, many of the original Korean immigrants are nearing retirement age. Just as the Jews and Italians felt settled enough to sell their businesses, perhaps Korean owners will soon do the same. Perhaps having reached their dream of surviving in America, they may pass on their means of doing so to a new wave of immigrants still looking for a method.
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Victoria is a writer for various social change and environment-focused websites. Previously, Victoria taught English in Thailand and worked in the film industry on sets, at festivals, and in production offices. Born and raised in Virginia, Victoria studied film and English at Boston University. She looks forward to future international adventures and hopefully, the eventual publication of her short stories and the novel she has just begun. She currently resides in Brooklyn, NY.
